This is story of my kayak solo trip I had in the Thailand’s southern islands,  I wrote it to myself and my needs ( I am in the age that the amnesia starts... )....Hope that it will be interesting also for others. I have been paddling in sea kayak over four years and the trip in Thailand definitely utilized the experience that has been acquired in those years. To get the right perspective on the story it is important to mention that in the paddlers’ community you can find those who faced much more challenging environmental conditions compare to mine ……
The track covered about, 350 km along south Thailand coasts and islands,  it took 10 days ( 9 days of net paddling  ). Within it I experienced adventures that included tropical storms, technical malfunctions and other challenges.  On the other hand, I experienced spectacular nature and direct warm connections with the local people. An essential bonus was the ability to be cut off completely and live intensively the silence without need for music , newspaper , books etc…
 
It was the initiatives of Misha Hoichman ( Tel-Aviv) who plan 3-6 paddlers to join him to a trip in southern Thailand  on February 2008. It was planned as a follow-up to Misha’s  previous year journey in Croatia with the same group size. Unfortunately, from various reasons the potential partners dropped and the planned  trip was cancelled . I failed to abandon the trip idea, solo paddling looked as and interesting option , so I decided to go alone to the trip for longer period starting from 31/1/08 within the dry season.

Originally I planned a trip of 11 days in sea from the 30/1/08 till 9/2/08.  Actually , I conclude it a day earlier , so that all in all I was out of country for more than two weeks. I have planned the track punctiliously based on information I received from Dave ( from whom I rent the kayak in Phuket)  and Alan Brook who had made similar trip on February 2007 (a year earlier). I used digital marine maps I have downloaded from internet , with it I planned the route and collected the relevant waypoints in my GPS.  

In the planning phase I was worried from the heat load in this tropical area and the high and low tides , retroactively there were good reasons to be anxious …

I have spend six nights on isolated beaches , with free & fresh air on sandy resting places that was fitted to my body shape. My gear was laid in an order on my side (so I can find things in the dark) . My bath was in the open sea surrounding with shining planktons and tens of fishes with  phosphorous eyes . I was wondering, what was attracting those creatures , to be on the safe side, I started to have my paddling trouser on me while bathing.   Although it was salty water bath , the feeling was as in an luxurious hotel , clean,  calm with unlimited warm water….

The other nights (five ) I have stayed in small basic resorts (bungalows with wooden walls , fan and a generator that start operating in the evening). In two of those resorts you can have Thai massage service , usually on an open space near the sea , wonderful recipe to free the aching muscles after long day of paddling …..  

Breakfasts and lunches were based on dry food I was carrying in the kayak’s hatches  (snacks, dry fruits ,nuts etc.) , at the evenings where I stayed in resorts I ate in the local restaurant, in the isolated area I tried to eat before the night landing in one of the fishermen villages along the way. The food was excellent, even in the most outlying villages .

The preparation to the trip had started two month before with paddling training in the Mediterranean  sea about  60à70 KM per week , unfortunately it was not practical to simulate the Thai tropical heat load within the Israeli winter. I organized my gear and purchase critical missing equipment like GPS, compass, spare paddles etc.

For shooting pictures I used two cameras: The first is a  medium size CANON S5 that most of the time was stored in a dry bag and used mainly on landings , I operate it a lot in delayed shooting mode where  I was the only star without competitors.  The second camera was a water prove pocket camera that was stored in my PFD (Personal Floating Device) and was pulled out quickly for shooting attractions.

The challenges in the trip can be summarized as follows:

The tropical heat load : In average from 10:00 the heat load was around 36 c (36 Celsius = 97 Fahrenheit)  the load was down toward 16:00, of course during storms and rains the heat load was low but that time I faced other challenges.  The solution was to start paddling an hour or two before sunrise in the dark to utilize the most from the pleasant hours. At noon I reduced the paddling rate and try to have a siesta. Afternoon from 16:00 the wind started and it was nice paddling hours till sunset.

The wind : Most of the time the winds were from north east and east about 15-25 KM per hour, in first part I paddled north east and then south east so most of the time I had a major headwind component. Tropical storms started mainly in the afternoon , characterized with 30-50 KM wind sometimes mix with rain,  those storms calm down in short time (40 à 60 minutes). In large open sea crossing like in Pu island (25 KM) the storm started gradually at the end of the night  and has continued all day long with minor breaks . At the beginning it was side wind and it changed to headwind that slow me down to 2-3 KM per hour compare to the average of 6 – 6.5 KM/H. Planning the route close and parallel to the land cover allowed fair paddling. 

The Kayak: I used an ALTO plastic ( polyethylene) kayak , 15'8" length on 22" width quite fast one . The empty kayak weight was about 25 KG ,adding  food, water (15 liter) and other items it reached 55-60 KG.  Loading the kayak improves stability but was a shortcoming in approaching beaches and handling it away from the high tides risk (believe me I was counting every kilo).

The ALTO has only back compartment (only rear bulkhead) , meaning that if you carry more than the back compartment allows (and for ten days I need more..) , I had to load the bow through the cockpit . Unfortunately I did not have bow inflating bag to secure the cargo and to hold things snug. This created a risk that items may shift when you're trying to roll, making it difficult or impossible to right and impossible to do reentry (the bow is filled with water and sink). Trying to overcome it I keep air in my bow dry bags and press them . It was not a real solution , in the first emergency event the bags were pulled out by the waves in seconds.  I paddle rudderless, Alto's maneuverable shape lead to some frustration, but persistence pays off. 

Water leakage : My rented kayak has some old epoxy repairs that cover old holes in the bottom ( probably created by sharp rocks) , the trip hardships had loosen those repairs and I found myself several times in an hydrodynamic sailing bath competing the leakage with my hand pump . Repairs I made to patch the kayak survived about day or two. From self experience :  law of connected really vessels works , the water leak up to the sea level , no more, meaning that sensitive parts of my body were immersed  in sea water for long periods of time and in parallel an” in kayak”   private wave system start working.    

Hand blisters, scrapings and rocks’ cuts: In the beginning you complain ( feeling self-pity) , after four days you learn to accept …..understanding that nothing helps….. not even the antibiotic ointment that was washed with the first contact with sea water.

Navigation and night paddling: My conclusion facing the tropical heat load was that I should utilize the utmost out of morning coolness, from the second day of the trip I started paddling 1à2 hours before sunrise in the dark hours. (sunrise was around 06:30, minor moon rise around 05:30 and disappeared in 40-50 minutes). The night paddling was based on the GPS and careful route design to avoid problematic zones of rocks and mud.

High tides and low tides (or how to rescue a kayak that sunk in high tide) : In the Mediterranean bath we are not used to significant height differences between high and low tides. In the Indian ocean tides’ differences of 1-1.8 meter created hundreds of meter of sandy, muddy or rocky beaches that were  exposed or covered. The tides table (formal forecast you can find in the internet) was essential tool to plan the access to locations and night parking. Approaching caves, rivers and lagoons required proper scheduling with the tide, otherwise you can find yourself stuck in the mud or riding a sharp rock . In Ngai island I had left the kayak about 300 meter from the water  far from the high tide signs close to a prestigious resort . Combination of high tide and a storm  caused the kayak to drown and scattered  the gear all over the Andaman sea. Reconstruction of the drowned kayak and collecting part of the gear are describes in the next chapter.       
  

Summary of paddling data    30\1\08   -->  9\2\08 :

  
Diary of the trip :

30\1\08 The first paddling day :

I arrived late night of 29/1 to Phuket. I was collected on 0830 by a driver to the rental kayak company to close formal subjects ( payments etc )..... On 1000 I was in the Ko Sire beach loading a Quest kayak with my gear and food for ten days. Within less than an hour I was in the water on my way to Ko YaoYai (the big island east of Phuket). From the beginning I felt water leakage and thought that the source is the spray skirt ( there were frontal waves of more meter height) , after about – 5 km paddling I arrived to the conclusion that the kayak itself was leaking and I was compelled to return back to replace it. I updated Dave on phone regarding the malfunction and he arrived quite quickly  with a replacement , an Alto kayak that seems faster but has only back compartment (open space in the front).

Around 1400 I was back in water with the loaded Alto for 20 km of exhausting paddling in high heat load. On the way I had a rest break in the tiny island Ko Kai Nai , the local people there were curious , they asked me questions on the trip route and gave me cluster of bananas as a present and a genuine offering of their condolences . The first night camp place was chosen randomly because of the falling darkness, it was a rocky beach close to high cliff covered with vegetation ( no real upstairs escape route), during that night I was restless worried that the high tide will reach my rest place. .

Total it was 30 km paddling day, I was exhausted without proportion to paddling distance, apparently I have not been adapted yet to the tropical conditions. The beautiful sunset over Phuket gave me some comfort.

31\1\08 The second paddling day :

The amazing sunrise did not give clues regarding the expected in the second day. The chilly morning paddle was fast, the scenery still monotonic, every rocky island in the horizon seems as a distant promise. Around 0930 I arrived at the strait between the islands Ko Yao Yai and Ko Yao Nai and the heat started again to encumber, after about an hour I landed for a rest on a sandy beach checkered with rocks, mangroves and coconut palms. I arranged my rest place ( a sheet of plastic ) and to my surprise I fell asleep for  more than an hour and a half surrounding by excited beach crabs that run around, apparently I was not in shape .

In 1200 I started paddling (returning to the sauna) and I arrived to a pier (vessels parking) to renew my water supply…. The wandering between the deserted buildings was without result and I continued my way eastward to the edge of the strait ,at evening I arrived at a restaurant built of boards over the water with pier to the vessels. I will not bother the reader in the detailed description on the acrobatic capabilities needed to climb up the pier from the kayak without capsizing , but the restaurant’s curious customers had  free evening show , I assume they saw me as unidentified creature. Dripping and perspiring I sat to the first meal I had after two days paddling. I was under pressure to finish quickly my meal before darkness , so I was satisfied with a Thai omelet :  a pile of rice mixed with shrimps and covered with vegetable omelet… deliciousssss.  I found a place for night camp number of km north east to the restaurant opposite to the island Ko Nuk.

Total it was 30 km paddling day, I was still exhausted without proportion to paddling distance, and decided to start the next day early as possible. 

1 /2/08 The third paddling day :

Following the  previous days lessons, I decided to start paddle early in the morning when it was still dark , and indeed after about an hour and half organizing ( packing, eating etc. ) , on 0600 I started the third day on my way northward to islands Ko Rai and, Ko Kudu. After half hour I experienced amazing sunrise emerging from the water , the sun appeared behind long line on small isolated islands on the right, shining  on the big island on my left. My physical feeling improved and affected my mood and the paddling speed.  The scenery became more and more interesting. I started to enjoy the trip. Fisherman with their long tail (engines) vessels passed over , waving hands and curiously glimpsed at me . The day seemed to be a promise. In the western edge of the island Ko Rai I arrived at an amazing cave entrance that  led to a covert hidden lagoon that was spreading into the island center . In the lagoon I found  mangroves and typical animals environment that was connected to the sea in the high tide period. I arrived the cave at the low tide period, so I entered on foot into the hidden lagoon.

I went on north east towards two islands , huge vertical dark cliffs that broke out from the sea and in between small hidden sandy beaches. I entered a tiny cove with huge tree in the center for noon  rest.  On 1400 I started paddling to the northern point of the trip Kongam, a huge rock that came out  from the water , from there I started to paddle southward in the strait the between Ko Chonglat island to the main land  , along the way there were mangroves, dozens of huge rocky islands and lot of birds that hover over.

Around 1600 I arrived at the fishermen village Laem Sak that had a local restaurant . Again I have the climb up to the pier from the kayak ,but this time I was more experienced and less ridiculous. I was also experienced  choosing fast prepared food , so I could meet the time limit before dark....With the support of the local beer I had a good meal and within hour I was on my way to the third campsite in – Laen Taeng long cliff that in its western corner there is a narrow beach with palms and  large cave in its northern edge. Before sunset I paddle up the near river (about – 3 km)  but was force to return because of the falling darkness.

The northern wind that began  to blow pushed me to the cave shelter, in it I spent the third night listening to the sounds of the water between the rocks that was heard as babbling people , to confirm that I am alone without non invited guests I went out to tour my night  kingdom .

Total on the third day was 53 km paddling, I felt much better.
         

02 /2/08  the fourth paddling day :

Early dark start on 0530, paddled southward to Talin bay and on the way I saw the sunrise over the main land . The bay is located on the eastern side of Phuket basin, marvelous place of red rocks on sandy beach , above natural rock arc... lot of birds and  later fishermen boats in the background.
From Talin bay I turned to the south west circling the islands Ko Ka and Ko Honk that were nice but too touristic in their style , so  I returned back  towards the mainland.
I reached the cape from it you see the gulf of Krabi and Aonang and paddled straight to Ko Poda ( Ko dam hok ) skipping the touristic area north to me. Five km from Ko  Poda suddenly a tropical storm started   from north east (side wind) mixed with pouring rain, the waves reached  meter and a half and lowered the paddling speed of for 3- 4 KM/H. The storm grew up in a few minutes and faded within half an hour.

Poda island was the first time I arrived at a manned night camp and rented a bungalow. The island itself is a charming place (known and popular...with few dozens of bungalows). The first time I was required to transport the kayak hundreds of meters from the beach , I was afraid to leave it with all the gear in the crowded beach decided to drag it close to my bungalow. From this stage and onward the kayak towing with band and without it become a daily routine.

Total on the fourth day  41 km paddling , 154 km in the accumulative, I decided to spoil myself and to rest a day (took care …hand blisters, scrapings and rocks’ cuts) and to get good meals. 

3/2/08 the fifth day :

I had lot of rest and low price gourmet meals ( 10 dollar for a luxury meal)....in between I wandered around the island.... I went snorkeling.. but except bare rocks and a solitary colored fish the experience was not exciting .
From Krabi an Ao Nang (nearby towns in the mainland) groups of tourists arrived to eat at the local restaurant , to enjoy the beach and returned towards evening to their hotels...
On the afternoon I paddled to a bungalow in the southern edge that observed the next day track to the island Pu.Total on the fifth day 1 km paddling , real laziness. 

4/2/08  sixth paddling day :

Early beginning in dark  0430, in order to cross the distance to mid Pu island ( 25 km of open sea ) within the relative cold  hours . After an hour ( still in the darkness ) the wind speed increased and create over meter waves with whitecaps, moonrise helped noticing the wave before it   hit ime and the kayak. In parallel  the kayak start to leak and filled slowly with water. I worked hard with the hand pump to empty the water. In retrospect it became clear that the yesterday towing apparently loosened an old hole repair under the seat . The sunrise was on 0630 and I was 13 KM from the target.   Around 0900 I arrived at what looked as a deserted beach in center of Pu island , I found a place to rest and fell  asleep   ( after all  I got up on 0300 ).

I got up half an hour later to find myself in a noisy tourist beach ,some of them were watching the Kayak with curiosity..... After satisfying  their curiosity a middle age woman complimented me for keeping the environment clean pointing on empty bottle of minerals water that was attached to the kayak. I inform her gently that the bottle serves me to urinate when forced to do it in water and it doesn't show necessarily on my personal  qualities.  I noticed that she was shocked and that we are still in understanding gap ,so again gently I explain that my toy is so little and before the use I cut off the bottleneck .

I continued my way southward close to the beach hoping to get some shelter from the wind but it changed to headwind with strong gusts , only in the wind breaks I succeeded to progress. In the noon I arrived at the island Lula and from there in a strong headwind my I cross to Ko Klang and continue south till to the strait with Ko Lanta. On a sandy island full with wrecked timbers between the islands Lanta and  Klang I arrages a rest place for the night. I located the hole under the kayak seat and repaired it with epoxy. The silent was broken when around 2200, I heard vessel with strong engine that approaches to the island, I saw projectors lights scaning the beach and I heard sounds of people, it took time to understand that actually they are looking for me  , and I exited from my shelter to meet a dark image that questioned me peaceful in broken English if I am OK. Apparently  , fishermen saw me landing on the island and reported to the local police that come to check the stranger .  

Total on the sixth day 43 km paddling , mainly with side and head winds. 

5/2/08  seventh paddling day :

After the previous night experience with the Thai police , I got up early and started paddling along the canal ( actually strait ) between Klang and Lanta in darkness. From both sides there were Moslem villages, the muezzins calling for prayers broke the silent and the last night watch call of the roosters were added the magical atmosphere . I felt invisible rolling in a magic world.
With the sunrise I arrived at the open sea and saw isolated colossal black rocky islands  that were emerging out of water between me and the sun. 

In the west towards the island Lanta the shallow beaches were checkered with fish traps (combination of bars and nets that created mazes that trap fishes entered into it). On Lanta east beach about 5 km south of the  strait I discovered Thai fishermen village built on wooden columns, the sun began to shine on it.... apparently awakened its inhabitants.  I heard first sounds of the village new day. Fishing boats were laid upon shore near the houses waiting for the next high tide that allow the fishermen to go out to open sea. It was a special feeling to paddle covertly opposite to the houses , hearing the sounds beyond the walls ( conversation between husband and woman, babble of baby, a young mother singing to her child  …)

Wandering in the shallow water looking for way out , my paddle knocked the submerged rocks creating sounds that drew out yawning people to the balconies, they tried to explain me with hands to follow the village water way signs (tree bars that indicated pathway for the boats ) in order to avoid the rocks. One of them go down and sign me to arrive.... I approached him just to learn that he was curious to learn on my trip.

I was extricated southeast from the village shallow waters, on the way I saw rubber trees plantation and a group of peasants that concluded their night work surfing to the water with a boat full with what looked  like silicone prosthesis  ( the white rubber seeps to half coconut and crystallizes to the half ball shape). 

On the east 2-3 KM parallel  to the Lanta island there were few rocky island I passed (the biggest was Talabeng) on my way to a tiny island called Bubu( 400 X 600 M).  The sea was restless, but on my favor (back wind) helping me to arrive smoothly into Bubu tiny bay . From Bubu local modest resort two seaman (of the long tail boat) watched in me with great curiosity , later I learned that they were surprised that a small boat like the kayak stood  the 1.5 -2  m waves they were afraid to challenge and go out to the open sea. 

Bubu is a charming island, little compact place, with minimum signs of modern culture. Looks like a deserted pacific island of Second World War movies waiting for the Japanese invasion. I located myself in a basic bungalows  few meters from sea ( $ 12 per night ), and went out to the tour the jungle of my new kingdom.  Since that the island is little the tour was finished within an hour. At evening all the island’s refugees came to the local restaurant, the combination of the melancholic background music ,the bare lamps swinging in the wind gave me the feeling of end of the world, and in the end of the world people are opened.  I talked with Yael a French young fellow with an Israeli name (from the bible)  traveling alone his motorcycle throughout south est Asia and for living teaches English young Thai children in Bangkok.   

I had a long discussion with Adam , a local Muslim fisherman that was born in the mangroves swamps of Lanta island and make living  from tourists he takes in the season around the swamps and to Bubu restaurant.
Adam and his local friends were those who watched me coming and were curious  to see how the kayak survive in the waves ( all the time was northeastern wind of 25 kph ). We agreed that I will awaken them the next day in the morning so that will be able to see my departure from Bubu.

Total on seventh day 24 km paddling, a short foot trip and experiences with peoples.

6\2\08  the eighth day

The departure from Bubu was at sunrise , Adam and his colleague were watching me from shore , waving hands and calling , I did understand their calls because of the wind. It was back wind that raised  1.5 meter waves pushing me quickly southwest (8-10 KM/H). I passed Po island from the east and landed on Kloung island that drew my attention with its rich vegetation combinations of mangroves and coconut trees. I was welcomed by two deserted dogs that barked at me with suspicious and fear. I continued to the southern corner of Lanta island to a rich mangroves park. I arrived at the low tide so the sea exposed the mangroves roots surface were families of monkeys wandered collecting crabs and shellfishes, I could not get close enough for a good picture.

From Lanta southern corner  I crossed 14 KM of open sea southeast to the island Ngai , the wind was not supportive and blew in my face , fortunately towards noon it calm down . Getting closer to Ngai the water became more and more clear and near the island shore I could see from the kayak to few meter depth and notice colored schools (groups of fishes), crabs and sea anemones as if I was snorkeling and sitting a meter above water surface . The last miles till the night camp I paddle very slowly fully engaged in observing the lives beneath in the crystal like surrounding water.

On the southeast corner of Ngai I had noticed a resort that looks in high level compare to other places I used to sleep. I pave my way between small toy boats and people snorkeling to the beatch of ”Ngai resort”. I rent a basic room only with a fan without hot water for 50$ , but for me it was like an Hilton luxary room , to the room I carry only the relevant gear I need for sleep and wash, the rest was left on and in the kayak.

Towards the night I dragged the kayak from the water line across the high tide signs line (about 300 m) for extra safety I attach it to a stone wall and tie the kayak bow to a tree. The local guys assure me that the kayak is in safe distant from sea and that it looks funny tying the kayak so far from the water….   

Excellent restaurant, nice place with various services …good life…. Around 2130 I was lying down near the sea having a Thai massage from an old but strong lady, when I noticed that the wind went up with strong gusts.  I had a strange feeling that something bad was happening, it took time till I made up my mind to stop the massage and to check the kayak. The old lady was embarrassed when I got up suddenly, thinking that she hurt / tuch ….etc.. I failed to explain her the reason and rushed to the sea leaving her behind mumbling apologies in Thai…

  
When I got closer I saw waves smasahed on the stone wall , I strat running and reached the place where the kayak should have been.  I saw only water surface covered with breaking waves and a rope coming out tied to the tree. The kayak without the front hatch was filled with the wave water and drowned .

With my beach cloth (that I keep for happier circumstances) I enter the water that reached up to my chest looking for the kayak. I found only a drowned kayak without the equipment I left in the front and on the deck , instead I received shells, sand and small stones that weight tens of kilos. The stern (the only part that was not full of the sea presents) was pushed powerfully by the waves against the wall….and I noticed bending in the plastic in places it hit the rocks..

It was already 2200 , no one was on the beach to help me. Strenuously I manage to turn the kayak so that most of the accumulated shells, sand and small stones went out … and with the help of a stranger that appears suddenly on time from the dark (and disappear)  I drag it out of water to a safe place.

Without the gear that was washed to the sea I assumed that my trip had come to its end. So I spend time fixing and cleaning the kayak. Toward midnight I started to search my gear along the beach, with my head flashlight  I scanned rocky and sandy beaches for 2 KM (forced to enter into dark rocky coves with water up to my chin). In the first round I found only the spare paddles and some unimportant items, on my way back accidently I notice one of my dry bags 30 meter from the water line swinging 10 cm from water surface.  The trapped air I left when closed the dry bags was enough to flood the content up to 10-20 cm from surface ,so the bags encountered  the ground 30-40 meter from the shore were I collected them.

On 0200 I review my equipments, although most of it returned from sea, still the two spray skirts , the pump and hat were missing, meaning that still I am out of the game without at least one spray skirt.  Frustrated I return to my room  to catch a sleep , the excitement and the thoughts on how I would manage to return to Phuket with all the unpackaged items , did not allow me to sleep.  Around 0300 I decided to go for a final search round , half an hour later on the island corner I find one of the  spray skirts wandering gently up and down a rock just minutes before the final disappearing in the Andaman sea.

On 0730 of the 7/2/08 , four hours after finding the spray skirt I was again on track .

Total on eighth  day 31 km paddling till Ngai Resorts and a night….. full of experiences. 

7\2\08  the ninth day:

After a surrealistic night without sleeping I left Ngai resort and went on toward the island Karden expecting to reach Libong island at evening . It should have been a simple open sea crossing of 10-12 KM that became unpleasant experience.  Because of the previous night swinging and the hits against the stone wall, the repaired hole I had in the kayak bottom was loosen and after 5 KM I found myself submerged in a flooded kayak without option to empty it because I lost the hand pump in the night storm. Using a sponge was not so effective.

Any case my comfort was that the law of connected vessels works , water came in till the sea level , meaning that I had a private hydrodynamic bath (with 70-80 liter of sea water) with it I paddle till Karden where I stop for an emergency repair . I let the epoxy glue to harden for two hours ,hopping that it would be enough till evening. I used the waiting time for snorkeling in the beautiful water around the north corner of Karden.

To reduce risks I decided to change the route and cut the way towards Muk island that is opposite to Karden. I plan to spend the night there and have the time for a reliable hole repair. I paddled eastwards to a well known touristic cave known as the “emerald cave”. It is a water submerged cave , the entrance is with kayaks , canoes or by swimming. Amazing  nature with various blue greenish stalagmites and stalactites, Because of the touristic load I stay there only half an hour and went on along the cliffs of the Muk south east side that was cover with rich vegetation. I found night shelter in  a basic bungalows 500 meter from shore in a fancy resort, repaired the kayak and complement the missing sleeping hours.  


Total on ninth day 21 km paddling, snorkeling and visiting the emerald cave. 

  

8\2\08  the tenth day:

Started on 0600 paddling to Libong island , about 13 KM of open sea , fair wind and temperture , within two hours I reach the western corner of Liborg. I circumscribed the island in order to reach the living zone of the dugongs. The dugongs is  a marine mammal that breathes with lungs thus they cannot stay submerged for long like dolphins and whales. During the day the dugongs stay in the deep sea coming to the coastal areas at night to eat the sea grass. Since they eat grass like cows hence they are called "sea cows".

You should know a lot on Dugong behavior to enable yourself to find them and I was not an expert. The dim silhouette observation a sea cow and its puppy ( or what I try to convince myself)   did not justify the 25 KM of Libong encircling .

To meet the original schedule (I was on delay due to previous day leak) , I decided to went on to Haad Chao Mai and not to stay the night in Libong . Haad Chao Mai is a local village located in the entrance of a wide river in the shadow of huge cliffs that come out of water.  The target was a group of caves located on the river bank 5 KM upstream. The  river’s banks were covered with mangroves and it looks that I am moving slowly , actually with the high tide current I  was progressing very quickly upriver and only from the GPS I learned that my speed reach 8-9 KM/h . I reach a sign that directed me to a mangroves tunnel and to the amazing caves full of dripstones and stalagmites, the best part was a huge dark hidden lagoon inside one of the cave that was created by the sea water that reached via underground passages. It was not touristic place and real compensation for the efforts running after the sea cows.

At late noon I return to Haad Chao Mai cliffs and in a sandy cove I took my siesta . I had already paddled 50 KM on the tenth day. I decided to continue north back to Muk (13KM) to find a lodging place for the night before reaching the final point of the trip in Pakmenk.
On 1800 I reached Muk island north corner and failed to find  lodging in fair price , so I decided to go on to Pekmeng resort (14.5 KM) and save the paddling of the next day. The only info I had regarding Pekmeng resort is that it is located opposite to Pling island . Indeed after about three hour paddling in darkness (with the GPS help) I reach Pling island . Opposite to Pling I saw tens on lights shining on the beach 3 KM east of me. Those were the longest kilometers I had in this trip, I was wandering in muddy ditches along the beach with the fear to be stuck in mud and forced wait to the high tide to loose me, fortunately it took only two hours to find the resort in the dark. 

Total on tenth day 75 km paddling, I save the last day paddling plan. 

The Finale:

I spent a rest day in the Pakmeng resort that was dedicated to rinsing and cleaning and start of packing the gear. After the unplanned bathe in Andaman sea the gear was full of dirt and salt.  There were only few visitor in the resort…. The only sound I heard came from the birds and sea waves … I was wandering along the beach watching the women collecting shellfish in the low tide . The meals were a real culinary experience …..the Chinese origin owner of the resort upgraded the local style with her unique ingredients.    

On the next morning a driver with a van arrived to collect me and the kayak back to Phuket. It was a 6 hour drive back through the province of : Trang, Krabi, Panga and Phuket, on the way I could see few site I crossed with the kayak.

One day was left to spend in Phuket till my flight back home , half of it the morning I wasted in a touristic trip , at evening I have a  nice tour between Phuket’s alleys and in early morning I watch the sunrise and rushed to the airport.

Enclosed is a link to high resolution pictures:

http://picasaweb.google.com/ynel121/Thailand?authkey=3MbkMZzOhZc